The Chef’s Counter at Hop Alley launched in February 2024 and shifted to a tasting menu format just over a year ago. The cuisine starts with Asian influences as its foundation but then branches out, with chefs Sean May and Josh Sanford pulling inspiration from across the globe to divine something new.
During my meal I was never bored, confused, or indifferent — and I can’t underscore enough how valuable it is to have a meal that manages to surprise the taste buds with novel twists and turns.
Dry-aged beef tartare with lavash, whipped lardo, and pickled mustard seed? A beautiful starter. Badger flame beets with yogurt, in a pool of chili crisp oil and sprinkled with pickled agretti? Super quirky flavor combo that I loved. A Taleggio Basque cheesecake with apricot three ways? Beautiful, let’s do this.
What I really appreciate is that the food here isn’t trying to be universally appealing or like anything else that came before it. The chefs are ambitious (or maybe just masochists) — making major menu changes every week and adjusting dishes daily. Across 8–10 courses, some dishes wowed me, others were simply solid. But that’s exactly what I’d expect from a kitchen that’s constantly evolving and taking risks.
At $170 per person, you might be wondering why on earth I’d recommend a meal that wasn’t flawless from start to finish. In my mind, a dinner that keeps you guessing is a lot more worth wild than one that plays it safe. I would love to see more places challenging themselves like this. While the experience is intimate, it’s not precious (which to me is a good thing). I rather like that the meal takes place in a discrete section of the larger restaurant because you do get the personal attention, but you’re still exposed to the kinetic energy of the full dining room.
I’ve already been twice (once on my own, once as a hosted meal) and I believe the Counter is getting better as it goes along. So if you’re open to being pushed a little and value originality, the Chef’s Counter delivers an experience few places in Denver are even close to attempting.
The details
The Chef’s Counter (inside Hop Alley)
3500 Larimer St, Denver, CO
Pricing starts at $170 per person with additional add-on options of the wine pairing for $96 and the N/A beverage progression for $45. Reservations can be made via Tock.
Disclosure: This meal was hosted. However, the restaurant has no influence over my coverage, which remains independent.