In this month’s cheat sheet, a top vegan restaurant gets a sleek upgrade, a historic Colorado donut shop lands in Denver, and apartment building residents are annoyed by a rooftop cocktail bar.
This is an excerpt from the New Denizen newsletter on Substack. Subscribe for free to be the first to get my curated lists of new restaurant openings and recommendations.
Yes, I keep a list of every new and upcoming restaurant opening in and around the Denver area and every few weeks I sift through all of them to pick out the ones you actually need to know about. Here are some spots that opened in July that I think you should know about:
Expansions and upgrades
1. Gladys – Edgewater: Vegan concept gets a sleek upgrade
After more than 20 years of friendship, Rocky Hunter and Dave Grant have entered a new phase as co-owners of Gladys, a 100% vegan restaurant that recently expanded in mid-July from a food stall into a full-service spot at Edgewater Public Market.
The pair met in the early 2000s while playing in bands and both adopted a vegan lifestyle around the same time. After working in kitchens around Denver – including stints for Hunter as EC at Fruition and Grant as culinary director at City O’ City and Watercourse Foods – they opened Gladys three and a half years ago in the far corner of Edgewater’s food hall. Since then, they’ve built out a reputation for creating some of the best plant-based dishes in town.
“Our team and model had simply outgrown our beloved little shoebox of a stall,” Hunter says over email, when asked why now was the right time to expand. But the ambition was always there. From the beginning, they referred to the first iteration of Gladys as a “pilot episode,” that would prepare them to hit the ground running when it was time to move on to a full blown restaurant.
Part of that work was developing good practices. Hunter says he and Grant worked to remove “any ego” between the leadership team, focusing on mutual support and weaving the human element into everything they do. Fair wages and a strong culture have helped retain most of their original staff. It wasn’t the easiest path, but “anything good & probably worth doing often asks more of us at the outset,” Hunter says. “The choice to take that on has breathed life into our concept & allowed it to grow & thrive.” Now those investments are paying off in the new space: longtime team member Javier Roeth has been brought on as a third partner and serves as GM. Jacob Manzanares, a longtime cook, has been promoted to sous chef.
Staying true to their ideals continues with Gladys 2.0. Their pre-service lineup goes beyond a rundown on logistics, they’ve made space for personal check-ins: team members share favorite books, movies, and favorite meals, and the owners share memories about Gladys — Hunter’s grandmother and the restaurant’s namesake — or Grant’s grandmother, Moo. The goal is to build trust and spark creativity between the team, which naturally comes across to diners in the warmth and ease of service experienced in their new dining room.
While they are still getting used to the new rhythms and quirks of the larger space, there are already plans to build out new programs. Brunch and a chef’s counter tasting menu are currently the top priorities to build out. But no matter how far the concept grows, expect it to always be centered around the personal, “grandma-style hospitality” that has gotten Gladys this far.
- Vibe: A little respite of a space separate from the food hall, the decor balances the polish of modern day restaurant design with personal touches: minimalist blond wood benches and chairs and clean lines are softened by walls wrapped in floral wallpaper, shelves lined with greenery, and framed photos of the chefs’ grandmothers. Note: The overhead air conditioning manages to cool off the space extremely well, so if you’re one to get chilly, bring a shirt or light sweater.
- What’s on the menu: An expanded menu now offers a range of seasonal bites and small plates to go along with the sandwiches and large plates. Winners currently include a summer squash with almond cream and tarragon oil and a beautiful garden-fresh sweet pea toast. There’s a new braised mushroom sandwich called the Garden Dip, that’s as close to a vegan version of a French dip as you’ll find anywhere and the entrees are a real treat, especially a pillowy burnt scallion gnocchi. To end the meal, you can tie it all together with a strawberry rhubarb cake, served warm and finished with vanilla crème fraîche made from BioLife’s plant-based cream.
Also new is an excellent non-alcoholic beverage program with drinks like Bruno’s Cologne (made with house Chartreuse, cucumber, mint, tarragon syrup, and mint extract) and the Cast No Shadow, a zero-proof take on a margarita with a concentrated lime and jalapeno base topped with a salt foam. Due to the limitations of being in a food hall space, the restaurant will not pursue getting its own liquor license and instead encourages guests to bring in alcoholic drinks from neighboring businesses like Barquentine Brewing Company.
2. Tasty Donuts: Denver – Washington Virginia Vale: 95-year-old shop makes its way to Denver
The original Tasty Donuts opened in 1929 in what is now Commerce City, making it one of the oldest – if not the oldest – donut shops in Colorado. According to the Denver Post, current owner Maynor Ventura purchased the business in 2019 from its second owner, who had run it since the 1980s. Their brand new second location at 7150 Leetsdale Drive continues the tradition, using the original recipes and serving the same donuts that have become a staple for generations of loyal customers.
- Vibe: There’s a clear affection and reverence for the past, reflected in a full wall mural depicting women in classic diner uniforms serving well-dressed patrons and a pair of beat cops in a space that looks similar to the shop itself. The vibe is pure 1950s diner, complete with a red-and-white striped awning, black-and-white checkered tile, and blown-up vintage reproductions of historical donut ads and newspaper clippings adorning the walls.
- What’s on the menu: A lineup of classic raised and cake donuts, all made fresh by hand daily. The selection includes cinnamon rolls, twists, apple fritters, and turnovers, along with a specialty “giant donut” that’s bigger than most people’s hands. They also serve Dazbog coffee, with a dine-in special of one coffee and a donut for just $3.99.
New restaurant concepts
3. Sushi by SYC – Cory-Merrill: Omakase sushi spot goes for glam
These days, I have to wonder: If a sushi restaurant opens in Denver and it doesn’t offer an omakase experience, does it even make a sound? Luckily for Sushi by SYC, they need not worry, because their concept, opened on July 18, is designed around a 20-seat chefs counter sushi experience. It’s the newest place from the One Concept Restaurant Group led by Shuang “Sherry” Crossland, offering one 6:30pm seating a night and priced at $150 per person. Guests must secure reservations (and place a $50/pp deposit) ahead of time, walk-ins are not accommodated.
- Vibe: Featuring a striking, U-shaped, wraparound bar and a ceiling lightbox adorned with decorative latticework the space glows like an oversized lantern. When luminous shades of blue and pink are switched on for the bar backlighting, the room takes on a clubby, lounge-like atmosphere. Outward displays of opulence quite literally make their way onto the plate, with sushi sometimes served on gold-rimmed Louis Vuitton monogrammed dishes or sea-themed Dior porcelain.
- What’s on the menu: Early menus have been dotted with the most recognizable brand names in luxury dining: A5 wagyu, uni, toro, and foie gras courses. For the sweet stuff, the menu detours from sushi restaurant standards, with a crema Catalana closing the meal.
4. Ruby’s Good Shoes – Park Hill: Challenging start for all-day brunch spot
When I stopped by exactly one week after their July 20 opening, things weren’t going to plan. Coming in from the front door, I immediately had to make way for a group just ahead of me that had promptly turned around and walked out. Up front, someone who identified themselves as a friend of the owner, explained that the chef hadn’t shown up and no hot food was being served.
As I glanced around the empty restaurant, guests continued to trickle in, only to be met with the same update – though they could still grab a cocktail at the bar or purchase one of the few remaining pastries from the adjoining bakery. Eventually, staff began meeting people at the door, asking them to return later in the week.
However, reporting from Miguel Otárola of the Denver Post suggests the path to normalcy may be complicated. The former GM filed a dispute with the state, while the chef and most of the opening staff quit within the first week, citing nonpayment. In turn, the owner Hasena Williams, told the Post that the former GM had “subpar deliverables” and created a “hostile work environment.”
When reached for comment, Williams says the restaurant’s kitchen is now fully open (but closed on Mondays) and they are “still working through the kinks.” Williams did not respond to follow-up questions regarding the employment issues in time to include in this newsletter.
- Vibe: Simple, cheery design with a mid-century modern vibe, featuring frosted glass globe pendant lights and upholstered seating in earthy, muted tarragon, mustard, and burgundy tones. A long communal table anchors the center of the space. The outdoor patio offers ample, partially shaded seating.
- What’s on the menu: Brunch classics like egg plates, benedicts, avocado toast, and lemon ricotta pancakes. Southern cooking and internationally-inspired morning dishes biscuits and gravy, chicken and waffles, shakshuka with naan, and a kimchi fried rice fill out the menu. The drink menu has 10 options, from a coconut spritz to chocolate martinis.
Bars, cafes, and coffee shops
5. Art Club Coffee – Highland: Community-focused coffee shop gets going
This woman- and queer-owned coffee shop has taken over the former Pinwheel Coffee space. Drawing inspiration from their location in the former Navajo Art District – a block that used to house four galleries and the Bug Theater – they aim to revitalize the community by offering a platform for local artists. Artists can submit up to three pieces to display on the café’s walls for a month at a time, free of charge and on a first-come, first-served basis. The space is also designed to welcome non-artists, encouraging curiosity and creative exploration in a low-pressure environment. The café is open seven days a week from 6:30am – 3pm.
- Vibe: Welcoming vibes and pops of primary colors set the tone. A bookshelf stocked with art magazines and board games invites guests to linger and connect.
- What’s on the menu: They roast their own beans in-house, craft more than 15 syrups by hand, and highlight their homemade chai recipe as a signature offering. The menu features a full range of espresso drinks, coffee, and tea, alongside a rotating list of seasonal specials. Right now, those include drinks like the Matcha Lemonade Slush and Campfire Cold Brew. For food, the café offers a small selection of baked goods as well as quick, microwaveable snacks like Quaker instant oatmeal and Nissin Cup Noodles.
6. Rose – RiNo: What happens when a klurb opens on top of your apartment building?
A new clubby cocktail bar, Rose, sounds great on paper: a spot to sip drinks poolside and order bottle service while taking in sweeping mountain and city views from 16 stories up in RiNo, with live DJs keeping the energy high. And for visitors who’ve experienced the space since its July 12 opening, it just might deliver. But its location – perched atop The Penrose, a private apartment building – has rankled residents, many taking to social media and review sites to voice their concerns.
A quick scroll through the latest comments on the Rose Instagram account and the Google Maps listing for The Penrose and you can sense the frustration among the apartment building’s occupants, many saying that they were never informed or consulted about the decision to open the rooftop lounge to the public. Residents have also voiced security concerns, pointing out that even though they were told the public would take a separate elevator to access the bar, some claim partygoers have ended up in resident elevators, potentially compromising safety.
One-bedroom units at The Penrose, which markets itself as a high-end residence, currently are priced between $1,600 and $2,700 per month. The leasing office is now offering 10 weeks free on select floor plans for move-ins before August 15. Ósta Holdings, the ownership group behind Rose, plans to open a companion cocktail and music lounge called Thorn at the bottom of the building in September.
Rose is open Mon – Wed from 3-10pm, Thu – Fri from 12pm-12am, and on Sat-Sun from 10am-12am.
- Vibe: A mountain-chic indoor/outdoor setting featuring plush, velvet-clad sofas and accent chairs, along with rattan-backed bar stools inside the enclosed cocktail lounge. The space opens directly onto the pool deck, where blue-and-white striped umbrellas provide shade for loungers. Reservations are required for both pool access and bottle service.
- What’s on the menu: A mix of global favorites served in small plates – think street corn elote, blistered shishito peppers, guacamole and chips – alongside meat and seafood skewers, and lobster rolls. The bar offers eight signature cocktails, plus a full menu of wine, champagne, and spirits available by the bottle. The focus is clearly on alcohol; the only nonalcoholic option on the menu is a six-pack of bottled water.
One final craving
I picked up a plate of Portobello Brisket Penne from Tessa Delicatessen on E. Colfax the other day. This rib-sticking dish features generous strands of braised meat tossed in a creamy, vodka-adjacent sauce with a subtle kick from sweet chili, all topped with a sprinkle of Parmesan. There was so much sauce, meat, and mushrooms that I brought the leftovers home and added extra pasta to stretch it into a second meal.