NADC Burger, an Austin-based burger restaurant founded by pro skater Neen Williams and chef Phillip Frankland Lee (Sushi by Scratch Restaurants), opened its first Colorado location in Denver’s Larimer Square in mid-December. The concept grew from the two skating buddies’ post-session burger runs, where they’d brainstorm how to craft the perfect burger. Those daydreams led to launching this concept that serves its signature wagyu beef smash burger, served at five other Texas locations and one in Chicago.
The interiors are designed to evoke the skate shops Williams frequented as a kid in the ’90s. Decks are displayed as art along the back bar, framed photos capture skaters mid-trick, and neon illustrations feature demented gremlins and big cats shooting lasers from their eyes.
Then there’s the menu, which makes it clear this place does things its own way – you can take it or leave it. The shockingly simple menu only has two food items: the NADC burger and fries cooked in beef tallow. Besides the drinks – alcoholic cocktails, Colorado beers, and some very good Rocky Mountain Soda Company brews – vegetarians will need to look elsewhere. Customization is limited to adding a third patty, adjusting the available toppings (either removing or adding extra), or upgrading the fries to “beast mode,” which means loading them up with all the burger toppings.
The $16 cheeseburger arrives neatly swaddled in branded paper. Unwrapping it unleashes a double-patty beast, stacked with American cheese, Thousand Island-style secret sauce, onions, pickles, and jalapeños, straight into your hands. My main quibble: the first few bites are messy, with sauce, pickles, and jalapeños slipping out and sliding down your hands. Bits of burger grease and sauce drip down your fingers and seep into your skin, scenting you with a cheeseburger musk (though some might find that an aphrodisiac).
Smash burger connoisseurs might dock points for not uniformly having the thinnest, laciest edge, but for the rest of us, the crust brings a sufficient level of umami and the beef – directly sourced from R-C Ranch in Bailey’s Prairie, TX – remains juicy and satisfying. The jalapeños, billed as “tamed,” don’t bring much heat and are not a threat to most.
The fries, which will set you back an additional $5, are cooked in beef tallow, so they have a desirably crunchy exterior with that extra bit of crispness on the edges and pillowy interior. And there were some unexpected nice touches like the herbed and spiced ketchup.
Overall, a tasty burger and solid fries. The higher price point makes it less likely to be a regular stop for burgers with the kids (unless you have really bougie kids), but it’s a nice spot for a casual bite with friends who appreciate wagyu beef. If you’re ready to complain about the $16 price, consider this: 1) you’re paying for wagyu, and 2) it’s the same or only a few bucks more than other wagyu burgers (A5, STK) in the area. Expect up to a 10-minute wait for your order, so plan accordingly. It can get busy at lunch or when there’s a show at Comedy Works or a game at Ball Arena.
Disclosure: This meal was hosted. My coverage remains entirely independent.