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Sushi by Scratch Restaurants Debuts in Denver with $195 Omakase Menu

Earlier this week, I attended the fifth night of service at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants, Denver’s newest omakase sushi experience.

Located in Larimer Square, it’s the 12th US outpost of the popular concept from chef/owners Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee. Their Montecito location earned one Michelin star in 2021 and 2022.

Finding the restaurant requires a few instructions: enter the street-level NADC Burger (the same LA-based restaurant group’s Wagyu cheeseburger spot), and let the staff know you’re there for Sushi by SR. During my visit, a staff member guided me through the kitchen and down two flights of stairs to the entrance, but an elevator will eventually be available to shuttle guests down once city approval is finalized.

Solid value for a polished (and very particular) experience

Pricing starts at $195 per person for a 17-course meal, which I found to be a solid value. I know using the words “solid value” to describe a dinner that costs more than a pair of new AirPods is a little wild, but I need you to dig deep and channel your inner rich person for a moment.

Of this class of places around the country, it’s not the cheapest, but it’s also nowhere near the most expensive. For the price, which is not inclusive of the automatic 20% gratuity added to your bill, you’re getting a good number of courses, fine preparation, and attentive service.

Some people will be drawn to this type of omakase as a form of cultural capital. Being able to spend that kinda of cash on a bit of good ol’ enterdinement is a flex. Others will be swayed by the design and how the subterranean setting transports them into their own little world of luxury away from the chaos. But putting these things aside and solely thinking of the merits of the food, for those who can easily afford it, I think there is much to like about the dishes put out by the chef’s counter.

If you are purely looking the highest quality fish you can get for the absolute lowest price, this place is not for you. If you’re not interested in paying a premium for the Sushi by SR brand name and the entertainment value of the experience, seek out another restaurant.

The meal also includes a complimentary cocktail and canapé reception in the lounge 30 minutes before your meal, where you’ll enjoy a drink and four additional courses – during my visit, a delicate Jidori egg chawanmushi was the most memorable – before being ushered into the main dining room.

Seatings are available at 5pm, 7:15pm, and 9:30pm, Wednesday through Sunday, with plans to expand to seven days a week. There are only 10 guests per seating, so diners can expect a personalized experience.

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Non-traditional sushi menu

Upon entering the main dining room, with its neatly appointed wood sushi bar, you’ll notice task lighting illuminating the preparation area, where guests watch each course being assembled right in front of them. Once in your assigned seat, peruse the back wall displaying four rows of chalkboard planks, each listing the main ingredient for the 16 sushi courses.

At any given time, around six of those items can also be found across all the Scratch by SR locations, including signature dishes like hamachi nigiri glazed with sweet corn pudding and sourdough crumbs, and crispy unagi cooked in bone marrow fat. The rest of the menu is tailored to the city, incorporating locally available fish and products. However in Denver, don’t expect too many local options, as sushi typically utilizes saltwater fish for its taste and texture.

Sushi by SR is non-traditional, adding twist to classic sushi with inventive toppings, sauces, and garnishes. Among the nigiri courses, my top three were: shima aji with soy, vinegar, and nori puree, topped with Fresno chilis and orange zest; seared mackerel rubbed with roasted garlic and topped with crispy onions; and a rich, hard-seared 12-day aged Wagyu from Hokkaido. I am by no means a sushi expert, but to me, the entire menu had clean flavors, good rice, with dishes that were satisfying across the board.

Storytelling at the chef’s counter

The pacing was efficient but never rushed. For those used to austere, near-silent omakase experiences – where the chef simply names the fish before placing it before you – here they offer something different.

On nights when owner Phillip Frankland Lee is in town, you’ll witness the self-assured way he leads the kitchen. The chef is a natural storyteller who combines details about the sourcing and characteristics of each protein with stories from his career along with the inspirations and intentions behind each menu item.

Take, for example, the seared mackerel course: Lee shared how tasting one of Katsuya’s signature dishes at 13 ignited his passion to become a sushi chef. This led him to create his own version of the dish as a tribute to that original inspiration, and he always makes a point to credit the restaurant whenever he serves it.

For dessert, we enjoyed a delicate, pale green makrut lime-infused matcha bonbon created by Kallas-Lee. It’s paired with a hot green tea brewed with umeshu plum wine, smoked lavender honey, and fresh yuzu that makes for a comforting end to the meal.

If Lee’s name sounds familiar, perhaps you remember him from as a contestant on Top Chef Season 13 or from the time in 2021 podcaster Joe Rogan called his food the “Best sushi I’ve ever had in my life,” in an Instagram post.

Add-ons to your meal

After the official meal concluded, Lee announced to the group the availability of two additional sushi courses for purchase and called for anyone who wanted to opt in to signal they wanted to join (price unannounced).

One man at the end of the bar raised his hand, which — whether out of social pressure to impress their dates or because the first guy had given them permission to indulge — quickly prompted the two men on his side of the room to do the same. The rest of us held strong.

The 9:30 pm seating is particularly popular with those looking to go all in. With no rush to clear the dining room, these extra courses could easily climb into the double digits. During my meal, while the three men finished their additional courses, the other diners politely waited and sipped on their remaining drinks.

Due to delays in securing their alcohol license, the restaurant introduced a $55 zero-proof pairing menu, which will become a permanent offering. The non-alcoholic take on a margarita with a tea-dusted rim was particularly successful. Once the alcohol license is approved, guests can order alcoholic beverages a la carte or choose from three additional Japanese cocktail, sake, or whisky pairings priced between $105–125, along with optional caviar and truffle supplements and additional courses. Update: 27 Jan 2025: Alcohol license is now approved.

Right now reservations do not require you to prepay the meal, so the end of the night involves a slightly awkward ask for everyone to get up from the dining room, line up in the hallway, and pay one group at a time before exiting the space. This also means that if the people behind you have good enough hearing, they’ll know exactly how much you spent on your meal. (The couple in front of me plopped down over $700 before sauntering out the door.)

An entertaining night out

The concept is perfectly calibrated for media-trained diners who want service to be a dramatic spectacle like Chef’s Table (drink every time a blowtorch is used) combined with the free-flowing instructional chatter of TikTok cooking videos.

And that’s not necessarily a bad thing. While this experience may not satisfy purists, you’ll find that Sushi by Scratch Restaurants does a great job explaining the food and the dishes are altogether tasty. By the end of the meal, you can not only leave feeling well-fed and satisfied, but have a deeper appreciation for the food and a better understanding of what to look for in future high-end sushi experiences.

Overall, I walked away thinking from a food perspective Sushi by SR strikes a nice balance between offering creative twists on traditional sushi without losing its essence. Based on my initial visit, I would recommend this place to anyone who appreciates fine-dining settings and is comfortable paying a premium for the entertainment value of the Sushi by Scratch Restaurants experience.

The details

Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Denver
1441 Larimer St
Denver, CO 80202

Reservations open on the first of each month at 11am for the following month.

Disclosure: This meal was hosted. My coverage remains entirely independent.

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