For the past two years, anyone passing by the northwest corner of Civic Center Park, where West Colfax meets 14th Street, has likely noticed its dramatic transformation. Once the site of a low-slung government office building, now stands Populus, a striking 13-story hotel with a façade reminiscent of the fissured white bark of Colorado’s quaking aspens. Such a departure from the uninspired, boxy towers that dominate the city’s skyline, this ambitious design dares other developers to step up their game.
It has all the trappings of a modern hospitality hit; including brand name architects (Studio Gang, the firm behind the spectacular Gilder Center at the American Museum of Natural History in New York), sleek nature-inspired interior design by Wildman Chalmers, an in-house art curator who is also an environmental activist, and the title of first carbon positive hotel in the United States. This summer, it made a play for followers of the highbrow foodie scene by pulling in Ian Wortham, known locally for his time cooking at Frasca Hospitality Group’s Frasca Food and Wine and Tavernetta, to serve as Executive Chef for two new on-site restaurants.
Needless to say, I was eagerly anticipating my first opportunity to see the project. On opening night, I arrived well ahead of my 7pm dinner reservation Stellar Jay, the more clubby of the two dining venues. My main goal was to have enough time to poke around the building and also take in the much-hyped rooftop terrace before it got dark.
Relaxing ambience and views for days
While the interiors are not as striking as the exterior, overall the aesthetic is pleasing and tasteful. The lobby – which features a daytime café run by Little Owl Coffee – and the second-floor common area are designed to include soft color palettes, clean lines, and tactile materials reminiscent of contemporary Scandinavian style. There are also plenty of quiet, comfortable places to sit and gaze out of the guitar pick-shaped “aspen eye” windows, which serve as the unmistakable focal points of these spaces.
Eventually, my guest and I made our way to the top floor where Stellar Jay is situated. The extra time spent on the rooftop terrace was well worth it. When I arrived around dusk, the moon hung overhead, and the sweeping vistas of the Rockies and Civic Center were illuminated by Denver’s twinkling city lights. Despite the steady thump of music and the chatter of content creators posing with cocktails for glam shots, I couldn’t help but think this might be one of the loveliest spots in the city. The distractions fade away when the views are so beguiling.
Crafted cocktails
We grabbed drinks at the bar while we waited for our table. The menu, overseen by Curtis Landrum, Populus Director of Food and Beverage and another former member of Frasca Hospitality Group, features an even assortment of cocktails and beers, and primarily European wines.
A non-alcoholic Earl Grey spritz made with lime and soda water was refreshing, not overly sweet like many zero-proof cocktails these days, as I sipped it through a nubby biodegradable straw. The Mohawkan Old-Fashioned, made with mezcal and reposado tequila, was served in its namesake glass and looked deceptively full in part to the liquid being displaced by one of those perfectly clear, giant cubes of ice.
Dining room elegance
In due time, a staff member found us and called us in for our reservation. Here I got a better look at the dining room; clean and modern with zones divided between lounge seating with low-slung boucle sofas and green velvet booths and standard tables matched with either upholstered cloth or woven leather chairs. Above us hung wood leaf-shaped discs mimicking dappled light filtered through trees.
So far the design and atmosphere proved to be on point, but would the food match?
Exploring the restaurant’s identity
As I settled in and scanned the menu, I found the sections labeled small plates, live fire, and vegetables included a mix of fried starters, crudos, salads, and grilled or roasted meats. Searching for clues about how everything connected, I came up empty. I asked our server, who explained the concept: fresh, seasonal ingredients cooked over a live flame.
At best, it can be described as contemporary American seasonal cooking – a vague catchall for US eateries where regional, cultural, or thematic labels don’t quite fit. I also hesitate to call it a live-fire restaurant, as that feels more like a description of the cooking method rather than a defining perspective. While the overall hotel concept is sharp and distinct, Stellar Jay’s own identity remains amorphous, leaving diners to politely shrug when asked what the food is all about.
Food with good intentions, but mixed results
And as it would happen, this still muzzy vision trickled down into the dishes. At this early stage, most felt clumsy, with flavors and execution falling short. It was reminiscent of a talented student scrambling to complete a term paper at the last minute – good enough to get a passing grade, but lacking the polish to truly impress.
Each of the veggie plates had its quirks. The radicchio salad was coated in a vinaigrette so sharp that my dining companion, known to swig grocery store dressing straight from the bottle, blurted, “This is too much vinegar, even for me.” Meanwhile, the maitake mushrooms were fully encased in tempura batter, which not only lacked a satisfying crunch but also drowned out their earthy flavor. We thought another round of drinks might brighten the mood. My guest ordered the melon margarita, which had a neat look with its Ecto Cooler neon-green hue, but the tequila flavor played second fiddle to the sweet orange liqueur.
By the time the entree arrived, I was feeling anxious, but the ruby trout helped settle my nerves. The presentation was spartan, yet the fish was well-cooked with the skin left on. A little more acidity – a tiny lemon wedge was not enough for the large filet – and a bigger scoop of the delicious spruce gremolata would have left me even happier.
Although we didn’t order the $169 dish dubbed “Thor’s Hammer,” I couldn’t help but notice the massive bison shank being prepped in the open kitchen. We had been warned it could easily feed four to six people, and its size walked the line between impressive and comical, with a huge bone jutting out from the top. When a server finally brought one out, she looked stressed as she maneuvered the Flintstones-sized chunk of meat through the dining room. Just as she reached her destination, the whole thing tipped over, inches from being set down. While I can’t comment on the taste, I will say that if you tackle this giant, you’ll have leftovers for days and a sweet bone to take home for your dog.
Though the meal had its ups and downs, the hearty portions ensured I didn’t go hungry, and the prompt, attentive service added a positive spin to the evening. While the savory dishes sometimes faltered, the pastry and dessert team delivered a strong finish. At the end of the meal, I ordered the Humor Bar on a whim. When it arrived – yogurt gelato wrapped in a hard strawberry chocolate shell and dusted with toasted milk crumble – I realized it was a playful nod to the corner store strawberry shortcake ice cream bars I loved as a kid. It was beautifully plated, too. This was the fun and personality I had been waiting for all evening, and it put a smile on my face at the end of the night.
A beautiful setting with promise
Not every restaurant needs a killer concept to succeed; often, a solid reputation is simply built on excellent service and consistently delicious food. As Stellar Jay enters its first week, it’s still finding its footing. However, if anyone asks about it, I can recommend it as a beautiful spot for anyone looking for a glamorous backdrop for their dinner date. Only time will tell if the food will evolve to be as impressive as the views.
The details
Stellar Jay (top floor of Populus)
240 14th St
Denver, CO 80202
Disclosure: This meal was hosted. My coverage remains entirely independent.