Kenny Doan painted a vivid picture of a bustling dinner service at Sắp Sửa, a non-traditional Vietnamese eatery recently celebrated by Bon Appétit as one of 2024’s best new restaurants, and where he works as a cook. Six or seven orders for “gà chiên nước mắm,” or fried chicken with fish sauce, flood in all at once. The marinated pieces are battered and immediately thrown into the bubbling fryer, one after another, to the point where the equipment is brimming with bird. The sheer volume of tickets for the dish prompts a co-worker to joke that they’re no longer a Vietnamese restaurant, they’re running a KFC.
“When it first came out, it was like, ‘Oh my God, this is huge right now,’” recalled Doan, the creator of the dish. Diners still clamor for it, and by the end of any given night, the kitchen can run through an entire case or more of poultry. To keep up with the demand, they marinate large quantities of chicken daily, allowing guests to order the crispy bird with abandon – currently one of the most popular items on the menu.
America’s favorite meat
The fact that fried chicken is a hit comes as a surprise to absolutely no one. Americans’ appetite for poultry has steadily grown since the 1940s, and according to the latest available USDA data, it is now the most produced meat in the United States – and there are no signs that its upward climb will slow down. From the ubiquity of chicken tenders to $100 chicken nuggets and the never-ending fast food chicken sandwich wars, it’s clear that for many in this country, chicken reigns as the undeniable queen of the barnyard.
While roasted and rotisserie chicken have their fans, fried chicken occupies a special place on the American dinner table, thanks to its deep roots in Southern cuisine (we can discuss its Scottish origins another time). Even in my own family, we have our share of fried chicken devotees, particularly my Southern-raised mother-in-law. During a recent series of “nice” family meals where I was responsible for choosing the dining establishment, I began scouring the menus of local restaurants for the one dish I knew would bring a smile to her face. To my surprise, the golden fowl was pretty darn easy to find. But why? Was it simply a matter of profit margins, or was there something deeper behind its ubiquity?
As it turns out, fried chicken is often more than just a way to satisfy the demands of a chicken-obsessed clientele. Sometimes it serves as a customer-friendly bridge for chefs to share cherished flavors from their childhood. Other times, it’s about making use of humble cuts to faithfully execute a version of the Southern staple. Regardless of the approach, chefs are drawn to the crispy bird as a way to connect with their customers, and diners can’t resist indulging.
A very Vietnamese dish

The fried chicken dish at Sắp Sửa wasn’t born from a desire to please the crowd; it originated from hunger. At the restaurant on his day off and feeling peckish, Doan rummaged through the kitchen. Finding chicken thighs, he decided to make himself a fried sandwich inspired by the Vietnamese flavors of his childhood. As he enjoyed it, he thought, “This is so good,” and wondered how he could turn it into something that could work on the menu. After some trial and error, the team landed on a fried chicken entree, served on a bed of Little Gem lettuce, transforming it into a chicken salad of sorts.
But the fried chicken dish also serves as an opportunity to introduce diners to ingredients they might normally shy away from, like fish sauce. While pungent on its own, when used in the marinade, it infuses the chicken with a pleasing umami richness. “If you served it without telling them there’s fish sauce in it, people would never pick up on that flavor,” the Doan explained. “There’s so much depth, and they’ll say, ‘Wow, this chicken is so juicy!’ Well, all that flavor comes from the fish sauce.”
Additionally, the item is an amalgamation of various influences from Vietnamese cuisine. Doan dusts the chicken with rang muối – a salt and pepper mixture commonly used for seafood – to enhance its flavor. Drizzled over the lettuce is a sweet and sour dressing inspired by traditional salad vinaigrettes, made with fish sauce, sambal, and Thai chili for a zesty kick. To finish, it’s topped with heaps of cilantro and tangy pickled cucumbers reminiscent of bánh mì. He feels his fried chicken isn’t a traditional gà chiên nước mắm, but something new that builds on tradition but still tastes very Vietnamese.
Legs and thighs find their purpose

But Sắp Sửa isn’t the only less-than-obvious spot for noteworthy fried chicken in the Denver metro. At Stone Cellar Bistro in Olde Town Arvada, co-owners and chefs Jordan Alley and Brandon Kerr offer a highly seasonal menu that emphasizes local sourcing with an upscale French bistro flair. Since opening in 2022, they’ve built a local following and secured a spot on 5280 Magazine‘s list of the 25 best restaurants. Among dishes like foie gras parfait and coq au vin, you’ll also find the familiar crispy bird. But the story behind its successful appearance on the menu is rooted in a commitment to minimizing waste by using every part of the animal.
“Our fried chicken came out of necessity,” said Kerr via email. “We use whole products as much as possible, which includes chicken.” While chicken breasts are reserved for entrées and the bones are used for stock, they needed a way to utilize the legs and thighs. They landed on offering bowls of fiery fried chicken. “Everybody loves fried chicken,” remarked Kerr, who previous worked at the Southern cuisine restaurant Husk in Charleston, South Carolina.
Once they settled on the direction, it took the team several weeks to perfect the recipe. They developed a two-day process that begins with brining the quarters, followed by dredging the next day. Although Kerr won’t disclose the specific ingredients in the brine or dredge – only saying the recipe “runs in my blood” – he noted the goal is for the fried chicken to be both sweet and spicy, balancing heat with their spiced honey. It’s become such a signature for the restaurant that it appears on both their happy hour and dinner menus.
Elements of an exceptional fried bird
But what’s the secret to great fried chicken? Kerr says double dredging is key. “No disrespect to battered and buttermilk chicken, but there’s a time and place for it,” he explained. The ideal process starts with a light coat of a flour mix that sits for an hour or two to create a tacky surface. The second dredge happens just before frying, resulting in a crispy, crackly skin. He points out that the nooks and crannies formed on the skin are perfect for holding extra seasoning once it comes out of the fryer – “or cast iron pan, if you’re my Grandma,” he quipped.
Doan has a different point of view. He first believes that using dark meat is necessary because it has superior flavor. For the batter, he likes to draw inspiration from the lightness of Korean fried chicken, in particular the style used by the bb.q chicken franchise that originated in Seoul. He opts for coating the thighs in a tempura-like wet batter made with rice flour, cornstarch, and water, which are then immediately fried. The result is a chicken that doesn’t feel heavy or greasy but achieves a satisfying crispy exterior.
The food with universal appeal
While their methods for achieving the perfect bird may differ, both chefs agree on one essential point: fried chicken has universal appeal and transcends cultural boundaries. “Everyone has a culture of fried chicken,” Doan observed. From Japanese karaage to German chicken schnitzel, most places around the globe boast their own beloved versions, making it an ideal dish for forging connections with all sorts of diners. Said Kerr, “[It’s] something everyone can relate to on some level.”
Even more fried chicken ideas
Want more ideas on where to get fried chicken in Denver? Here are some spots to check out:
Classic fried chicken
Post Chicken: This Colorado chain was started by chefs Dave Query and Brett Smith in 2014 and now has half a dozen locations across the Front Range. While you can find chicken prepared in many styles, don’t miss their classic fried half chicken. It’s gluten-free and comes with your choice of side, pickles, and a biscuit.
Chicken sandwich

Le French: Chefs Ami and Rougui Dia give their fried chicken sandwich a Senegalese twist by topping a crispy, Dijon-brined chicken breast with rich lemon-onion yassa sauce, and placing it between a brioche bun with chopped lettuce. You can find it on the lunch menu at either their DTC or 9th and Co locations.
Chicken sliders

Yardbird: Founded in Miami by Top Chef alum Jeff McInnis, this chain opened a massive location in RiNo, Denver, in 2023. While you can enjoy a half bird for $36 on the dinner menu, the crispy chicken sliders on the daily happy hour menu offer an equally tasty option for just $10. Served with a smear of pepper jelly, these bar bites make for a hearty snack at a great price.
Chicken tenders

DANG Soft Serve: If you’re near Oneida Park, check out this Little Man Ice Cream family restaurant for a great deal: the $12 chicken basket. It comes with a handful of perfectly crispy chicken tenders alongside a generous portion of standard-cut french fries. Don’t forget to get some soft serve at the end of your meal.